27 March, 2013 permalink
Samoa: Tales of the teller live on
Under the wide and starry sky,
Dig the grave and let me lie.
Glad did I live and gladly die,
And I laid me down with a will.
This be the verse you grave for me:
Here he lies where he longed to be;
Home is the sailor, home from sea,
And the hunter home from the hill.
It's not often that museums move me to tears, but I wasn't the only
tourist pulling out the tissues at Robert Louis Stevenson's Museum in
Apia, Samoa. When the guide read the famous Requiem and then sang it in Samoan I noticed even some chunky Ocker males were tearing up.
We were standing in the room Stevenson used as his hospital ward in the
beautiful plantation home called Vailima where he spent his last days.
The Scottish-born writer, who ranks among the 26 most translated writers in the world and is famous for works such as Treasure Island, Kidnapped and The Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde, spent the last four-and a-half years of his life on the hilltop property where he died in December 1894 at the age of 44.
I was celebrating a significant birthday in Samoa and, always
intrigued by "Tusitala" (the name the Samoans gave Stevenson, meaning
teller of tales), I was determined to visit the museum, located directly
below Stevenson's Mt Vaea burial site.
In failing health, Stevenson searched for a suitable place of residence
for some years before he bought 161ha in Upolu, Samoa, in 1890 to build
A century after his death and burial, the Robert Louis Stevenson
Museum/Preservation Foundation dedicated the completely restored
building of Vailima and opened it to the public as the Robert Louis
Faithfully recreated by Mike McDaniel, an American interior designer,
Vailima, looks very much as it did during the years the author lived
there, with a few additional rooms.
Fortunately I arrived just as a very charming and eloquent Samoan guide,
Margaret Silva, had begun her tour of the house including the Great
Hall, author's library, the smoking room and numerous bedrooms.
Like the legendary Tusitala, Margaret told some wonderful tales. With
her colourful commentary it was so easy to imagine R.L.S. lying in that
hospital room (the Stevensons called it the Medicine Room) where he was
tended by his American wife, Fanny - often using traditional Samoan
Although many of the pieces of furniture on display are not the
originals, there are some pieces the family owned - such as a big
travelling trunk marked R.L. Stevenson and a chintzy armchair in the
writer's mother's room.
There is also a major collection of photographs of the Stevenson family
throughout the house, including many of the writer at work and around
the property with the local staff.
Pictures of Fanny show her in full Victorian garb with a flowing white
gown and buttoned-up boots. Her Samoan name was Aolele - meaning "flying
clouds", because of the long white dresses she always wore.
Also on display are some paintings by Stevenson's stepdaughter and
secretary, Isobel, who did many drawings for his books. She spoke fluent
Samoan and was named Teuila by the locals after the Samoan native
flower. Her portraits show her trussed up in velvet gowns - it can't
have been easy in the balmy Samoan weather.
The original safe where the writer kept all his manuscripts (it was the
first safe in Samoa) is still on show in the Great Hall. Stevenson used
to keep the local children away by claiming spirits lurked inside the
He wrote 13 books during his Samoan sojourn, but, apart from his
literary successes, you need only a few minutes in the very evocative
atmosphere of the museum to know how well loved and respected he was by
As our guide explained, Stevenson believed in the Samoan way and was
very involved in Samoan politics. He always said he wanted to be buried
on Mt Vaea with "his boots on", which was understood to mean to be there
with the Samoan people. He referred to the Samoans as "one of God's
Margaret pointed out across the beautifully manicured gardens up to his
burial site. She described how when the news of his death went out
across the islands of Samoa, the locals poured in to clear the Road of
the Loving Heart to the site. They worked through the night by the light
of kerosene lamps to clear the dense rainforest so he could be buried
within 24 hours. They then took turns carrying Tusitala's coffin up the
Road of the Loving Heart for his burial.
His tomb is inscribed with his famous Requiem and faces his homeland of Scotland.
His wife Fanny died in California in 1914 and the following year her
daughter brought her ashes back to be interred next to Stevenson on Mt
It takes about 45 minutes to climb that Road of the Loving Heart, which
should be done in the cool of the morning or late afternoon. It's a road
I intend to climb when I next visit Samoa because I'm captivated by the
place and the magic of Robert Louis Stevenson.
Getting there: Air New Zealand usually (seasonal
changes) flies between Auckland and Apia six times a week. Visitors can
take a taxi or one of Samoa's famous buses from the centre of Apia to
visit the museum.
Details: The Robert Louis Stevenson Museum is a
non-profit organisation. It is open Monday-Friday 9am-4pm; Saturday
9am-noon and closed on Sundays.
By Robyn Yousef
25 March, 2013 permalink
New jewel for the treasured islands - Aga Reef Resort to open its doors March 2013
Samoa Tourism Authority is proud to announce the opening of Aga Reef Resort - the newest 4 star resort in the picturesque south coast of Upolu
Aga Reef Resort is the brain child of former Samoan Trade Commissioner to New Zealand, Apete Meredith, is the newest addition to Samoa’s stellar line up of deluxe beach front resorts and is expected to be one of the hottest beachfront properties amongst Australian travellers to the islands.
Set along the beautiful Lalomanu Beach, voted by Lonely Planet as one of the 10 Best Paradises on Earth, Aga Reef Resort has a private island which houses 3 island villas, a Sunset Bar for delicious sun downers as well as a swimmingpool.
The island is connected to the mainland by an overwater walkway constructed carefully as to not disturb the beautiful coral clusters and marine life that feature in the waters surrounding the resort. Waterfront villas, Ocean View hotel rooms as well as the reception, main restaurant, bar, spa and the main swimming pool are located on the mainlandsection of the resort.
The kitchen will be headed by Chef Kit Foe - an award winning chef from Wellington who plans to develop a seafood focused, European/Samoan fusion offering to delight Aga’s patrons.
“Many people naturally gravitate to the nation’s capital of Apia not realizing that the best beaches and waterfront resorts are found along south coast of Upolu,” says Peter Sereno of Samoa Tourism Authority.
“The South Coast of Upolu is an emerging destination within an emerging destination and even our PM sees the region rivaling Apia. Big plans are in place for the south coast with plans for the construction of a new wharf for yachts and possibly an airport.”
“Aga Reef Resort is in the perfect location to reap the benefits of the region’s growth and we see this property as a key player in the development of the Alapeita region,” says Peter.
Aga Reef Resort has released some amazing opening specials with rates at 50% off.
22 March, 2013 permalink
Samoa properties recognised for excellence
Three of Samoa’s properties have been honoured at the TripAdvisor 2013 Traveller’s Choice Awards.
Seabreeze Resort, located along the stunning south coast was chosen as one of the winners in the following categories:
Top 10 Hotels for Romance in the South Pacific
Top 25 Bargain Hotels in the South Pacific
Litia Sini Beach Resort, on picturesque Lalomanu Beach placed in the Top 25 Bargain Hotels in the South Pacific.
Savaii Lagoon Resort, on the Big Island of Savai’i, placed in the Top 10 Hotels for Service in the South Pacific.
Now in its eleventh year, the annual TripAdvisor Traveller’s Choice Awards honor the world’s best hotels and are chosen based on millions of reviews and opinions from travellers around the world.
Peter Sereno of Samoa Tourism Authority says it is of no surprise that the world is starting to discover the excellent properties that Samoa has to offer.
“Samoa has a range of accommodation to suit all budgets and travelers – from deluxe spa getaways, to beachfront family resorts, city escapes and of course fales! It’s amazing how a five hour flight from Australia’s east coast seems to take you back thousands of years to paradise. Most of our properties have been designed to celebrate the natural beauty of Samoa’s surroundings and regardless of your star rating preference, everyone leavesSamoa a little richer in memories and experience” says Peter.
08 March, 2013 permalink
Chef Oliver and Zoomslide TV back to promote Samoan cuisine and food tourism
International Chef Robert Oliver and Zoomslide television productions are back in Samoa to film an episode of their food and travel show Real Pasifik.
Real Pasifik is a food and culture TV series promoting food tourism in one of the most pristine regions in the world, the South Pacific. Each episode shows the distinctive cuisine of that country.
The series is inspired by "Me'a Kai the food and flavours of the South Pacific", which was co-written by Oliver and Tracy Berno and won Best Cookbook in the World at the Gourmand Awards in Paris.
Oliver says it's been terrifically inspiring to be back in Samoa which he says he feels like a second home.
“I’m getting to work with some of the nation's best chefs and food heroes to discover the true treasures of Samoan gastronomy. It’s extraordinary the leadership role Samoa is playing in the world today in relation to organics and this story needs to be taken to the world.”
On Tuesday, Oliver and a team of local chefs will be presenting a stunning three-course meal to a small group of VIPs at Aggie Greys Lagoon Beach Resort and Spa, which is also hosting them. The menu will feature classic Samoan dishes made with local organic produce from Women in Business farmers in a five-star format.
Resort manager TheresaSing says the dinner is an excellent opportunity to showcase the resort, its talented chefs and the cuisine of the country.
Oliver and the RealPasifik team have selected four extraordinary young chefs to work with them. They are Sony Vaasili, Toe’aeFesolai from Aggie Greys, Dora Rossi from Paddles and Dana Rasmussen Ah Young.
Zoomslide TV productions were in Samoa last year with Oliver during the Teuila Festival and have been looking forward to coming back to shoot the episode.
Director Anna Marbrook says they know Samoa is truly in Robert’s heart. “So it’s important that we capture the wonderful people, food, culture and essence of Samoa.”
The TV show will be released later this year and distributed globally with international networks already lining up to see Samoan cuisine on a global stage.
Oliver will also return to Samoa next month to finish his Samoan Cuisine cookbook.
The television episode is made possible with the generous support of the Samoa Tourism Authority, Aggie Grey’s Lagoon Beach Resort and Spa, Virgin Samoa, Avis, Women in Business and Satuiatua Beach Fales.